How to change your motorcycle's engine oil and filter

The entire process only takes 20 to 30 minutes and doesn't require much in the way of tools and supplies. If you've assembled your TSM tool kit , you already have everything you need. Otherwise, we recommend getting a drain pan, nitrile gloves, a rag, a drain plug wrench and a torque wrench to reinstall it, an oil filter wrench, and any tools you might need to remove the underbody of your bike, if necessary. You'll also need a new filter, the appropriate oil as listed in your manual, and a replacement sealing washer for the drain bolt.

If your bike has been ridden recently, give it some time to cool down so you're not working with hot oil. If your bike comes with a center stand or if you have a rear stand or front wheel chock that will probably help you access the belly of the bike, but a stand is not necessary. What I would think is necessary is a ground cover to prevent the inevitable drips from staining the garage or driveway. I usually take some cardboard from the bin and put it under the bike.

Equipment matured, bike in position. Now use a rag to clean the gunk off the drain plug and around the oil filter, then loosen the drain plug with an appropriate combination wrench or socket from your kit. Once you get past the initial tension on the bolt, you should be able to unscrew it by hand and you'll know when it's about to release because you'll see oil start to seep past the threads. 

At this point make sure the drain pan is under the bike and make sure the pan vent is open so the oil doesn't boil and spit as it drains and try to position your hand and forearm so it doesn't be sprinkled with oil. Even so, I always have a rag in my free hand, ready to wipe the oil off my forearm.

Keep track of the sealing washer: it usually comes off the bolt, but sometimes it sticks to the engine. If you're working with the bike on the side stand and the drain plug isn't on the downstream side of the engine, hold the bike upright for a moment to help drain all the old oil. As the oil drains, note its color and condition, as it can indicate engine problems. It will be dark, but it shouldn't smell burnt, and if you see metal flakes mixed in, it's a sign that all the moving parts in your engine are not working properly. Likewise, if the oil is milky or pale, it usually means coolant is mixing with the oil, often caused by a leaking head gasket.

With the old oil out, it's time to move on to the oil filter.

Some bikes, such as many KTM and Honda dual-sports, have internal cartridge filters, while most street bikes use an automotive-style spin-on filter. If you have a cartridge, they are easy to replace, but make sure you don't insert the new filter backwards. In fact, go ahead and take a photo of the old filter before removing it, just so you have a reference.

To remove a spin-on filter, use a universal strap wrench, filter pliers, or filter socket. With the filter removed, pour in the oil and set it to empty into the drip tray. Now use a clean rag to clean the mating surface of the filter and make sure the O-ring from the old filter does not stick to the engine. It's rare, but it can happen and interfere with the installation of the new filter.  

Now, your bike's drain plug probably uses a copper, aluminum, or fiber sealing washer, or perhaps an O-ring. It's always a good idea to replace the washer or O-ring, but I won't lie, I'll just flip an aluminum or copper washer if it doesn't get chewed. The sealing washer on my wife's car has been rotated for almost 100.000 miles with no problems. Whatever you do, make sure the washer is in place and start the cap by hand before putting a tool on it to make sure you don't cross the threads; it's easy to do since the bolt is often in an awkward spot.

Typical torque on a drain plug is 14 to 16 ft-lbs, but don't take my word for it: check your damn manual and use a torque wrench. New mechanics love to overtighten things and damage the engine threads—which is what will happen, since the threads on the steel bolt are stronger than those in the aluminum crankcase—and it's the easiest way to turn a simple oil change into a minor disaster. If you strip any threads on your bike, don't worry; we have a video that walks you through repairing stripped threads, including those on the drain plug.

The next easiest way to screw up an oil change? Forgetting to put oil back in the bike. Don't laugh, it happens! Your manual will list the type and amount of oil to add, and your manual will also say whether the oil level should be checked with the bike on the side stand or held upright. In any case, once the oil level is set, start the bike and let it run for a minute, then turn it off, check the oil level again - it will usually drop a little because the new filter absorbs some volume – and check the filter and drain plug for leaks.

Top up with oil if necessary, and if everything looks good, you're done. It's great, right? If you want to feel even better, call your local dealer and ask them how much it would cost and how long it would take to have them handle what you just faced in 30 minutes. I'm not knocking dealerships and shops, but there's no reason why you shouldn't address your oil changes. And now you know how.