How to maintain and replace motorcycle throttle cables?

How to maintain and replace motorcycle throttle cables?

How to maintain and replace motorcycle throttle cables?

Don't worry, there's nothing too complicated about caring for your biker's noisy throttle and related parts. In this article, I'll show you how to inspect and maintain the throttle and how to replace the cables if, for example, they're worn or too short for the new handlebars you're installing.   

What to check and how often 

Take a look at the maintenance chart in your owner's manual and you'll see “Throttle Operation” or “Throttle Cables” listed as an inspection you should perform every several thousand miles.

It's a fairly simple check that starts with the throttle tube: make sure it rotates smoothly and snaps shut when released. Next, check the throttle play, which is the amount of rotation before the cable begins to pull. The specifications usually fall within the range of three to six millimeters, measured at the outside diameter of the handle. Finally, visually inspect the cable housing for any damage or kinks that could hinder the cable's movement, and carefully inspect the exposed portion of the inner cable for fraying or corrosion.

If the throttle play is not up to par

Most of the time, everything is great except throttle play, which usually increases over time. Ugh, few things make a bike feel less precise than a sloppy throttle.   

To change the freeplay, use the barrel adjuster on the throttle cable where it exits the throttle housing. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in or out to achieve the desired freeplay. If the adjuster is at its maximum, turn it all the way in and then take up most of the freeplay at the throttle body end using the locknut and adjuster there. Then fine-tune the freeplay using the barrel adjuster toward the bars. 

Side note: Modern motorcycles have two throttle cables: a "pull" cable that opens the throttle plates and a "push" cable to close them. Technically, both cables pull, and the throttle plates are closed by a spring, but the "push" cable is there as a backup so that if the spring fails or the throttle plates stick for some reason, you can forcefully shut things off. Typically, only the "pull" cable is adjustable, and you can more or less ignore the "push" cable.

If the accelerator action feels gritty

If the throttle action feels rough or sticky, the throttle tube and/or throttle cables may need lubrication. Interestingly, some workshop manuals specify lubricating these components as part of regular maintenance, while others only mention it as a remedy for improper operation. Some cables use a coated inner wire, making lubrication unnecessary. 

To repair the throttle tube, remove the bar end weight, loosen the barrel adjuster on the throttle cable to provide sufficient play, remove the throttle housing (usually held together by two screws), unhook the cables from the throttle tube, and slide the tube off the handlebar end. I know, easier said (read?) than done.

My go-to for degreasing most parts is a rag soaked in WD-40 or denatured alcohol. Using something similar, clean the bar and throttle tube, then apply a thin layer of multipurpose grease to the bar and slide the throttle tube back on. It should now spin smoothly. 

Since the throttle is already separated—and since the throttle tube may not have caused the problem in the first place—now is a good time to lubricate the cables. You can use a special device to inject aerosol lubricant into the cable housing, or create a funnel with the corner of a plastic bag. Poke a hole in the corner, secure the makeshift funnel to the end of the cable with a rubber band, then fill it with lubricant (regular engine oil works) and stroke the cable up and down to move the material around in the housing.

Again, some manuals recommend regular cable lubrication while others don't, and I've heard varying opinions from cyclists as well. Those who ride in dusty conditions sometimes prefer to leave their cables dry to avoid attracting sand, while cyclists in humid climates know the importance of keeping cables well-oiled to protect them from corrosion.

Regardless of the approach you take, the fact is that control cables are consumable parts, which brings us to…

Replacing the throttle cables 

If your inspection reveals damage, you will need to replace the throttle cables. 

You may also need to replace them to accommodate different handlebars. If you're switching to lower controls, you can usually handle the extra cable slack, but as you go higher, you'll likely need longer throttle cables, as well as a longer clutch cable and possibly a longer front brake line. Keep this in mind when considering new bars and do your research to see if the stock ones will work for your new setup.

In any case, when it comes to replacement cables, you can stick with OEM parts or get aftermarket (and custom, if you need a modified length) items from companies like Motion Pro or Barnett. Motion Pro also offers various throttle kits if you want to change the coil size for faster or slower throttle action.

When installing cables, the biggest obstacle is routing. It's important to follow the original path exactly to avoid pinch points, hot engine parts, and other hazards.

Before doing anything, take some photos of the cable routing, just for reference. Then disconnect the cables from the throttle housing and down to the throttle body, which may be buried under the tank. (Sorry.) Now it's just a matter of unhooking any zip ties or tabs securing the old cables and pulling them out while you chase them with your new parts. Secure the new cables in the same way as the old ones, connect them to the throttle and throttle body, restore the cable slack, and you're done.

Keep in mind that the cables don't come lubricated, so if you're going with wet wire, put some oil in the cable housings before buttoning everything up.

As a final check after installing new cables (especially if you've installed new handlebars of a different height), it's a good idea to start the motorcycle and rotate the steering from lock to lock. If the idle speed increases, it means the cables are being pulled. Either you've misrouted them or you don't have enough throttle freeplay. In either case, you'll definitely want to fix the problem before riding.

And with that not-so-short read, you're up to speed on caring for and maintaining your throttle and accelerator cables. We all love twisting the throttle, and ensuring it's properly maintained helps you keep doing so smoothly for miles to come.

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